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Photography locations – Utah




  • Photography locations - Utah

    My Visit to Zion National Park, Utah

    My first impression of Zion National Park in Utah was made in January, 2011 (described in an early posting here), and I concluded the place was an icicle. It was beautiful, but the trees were bare and ice was everywhere. I didn’t stay long, but I knew I wanted to come back.

    After I sold my house in Walla Walla (after three years on the market) and moved into my camper for the duration, I made my way to Zion after a slow trip down the Oregon coast in April. I arrived on April 12, 2013, about a week or so after most of the trees had leafed out — very good timing on my part.

    Zion has two campgrounds, one that usually requires reservations (Watchman Campground) and another (South Campground) that is first-come. Here’s a tip for getting a campsite at South Campground without having to wait for the current occupants to actually leave: Very early in the morning, the campground hosts pull the paper stub from the clip posted at each campsite. If the post clip has no paper stub, it means those people are leaving sometime before 11:00. Anyone wanting a campsite could fill out the small envelope available at the campground entrance, tear off the stub and place it in the empty clip on their desired site (if the current occupant are up and around, it would be best to talk with them first), and then simply wait in a nearby place (picnic area, overflow parking area) for the site to become vacant. That beats driving around hoping to be in the right place when someone leaves, especially when other would-be campers are doing the same thing.

    For those not wanting to camp, there are a variety of places to stay in the adjacent town of Springdale, within walking or biking distance from the campgrounds.

    Between the end of March and the first part of November, travel on the scenic drive that goes to the heart of the park is restricted to shuttle busses — private vehicles are not allowed. However, private vehicles can drive as far as the bridge over the North Fork of the Virgin River (this section includes the Human History Museum and a wonderful morning view of the Towers of the Virgin sandstone cliffs), and private vehicles can continue on Highway 9 through the tunnel to the east side of the park. Large vehicles, including my camper, must pay a $15 fee to go through the tunnel, because the tunnel has to be closed to traffic from the other direction to allow a large vehicle to drive down the middle of this relatively small tunnel. Those who are staying at the Zion Lodge get a special pass that allows them to continue on the scenic drive only as far as the lodge. Accommodations can be made for people with handicaps to travel the entire length of the scenic drive in their own vehicle, but from my experience at Zion such permits are very limited. [Side note: I'm handicapped and have a handicap parking decal, but I'm able to get about on my own most of the time, and that's true of a vast majority of holders of handicap parking decals, in my opinion. The use of such decals greatly exceeds the true need, again in my opinion and experience.]

    Good news: the shuttle system works marvelously, and it’s a wonderful alternative to a roadway jammed with cars and RVs. The hub of the shuttle system is a very short walk from both campgrounds, and the system also connects with downtown Springdale so those staying there can just leave their vehicles parked during their entire stay at Zion if they wish.

    The busses leave every 10-15 minutes, and they are never crowded (based on my April experience) as they are in the Grand Canyon (based on my subsequent April experience). The busses stop at a number of established locations and trailheads on their way to the north end of the scenic drive. Passengers can embark or disembark at any of these stops, and the ride is free. I think the shuttle system has greatly enhanced the experience at Zion.

    Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 17mm T/S lens

    Shuttle bus on the scenic drive.  Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 17mm T/S lens.

    The sandstone peaks and cliffs are some of the tallest in the world. The beauty of sandstone is simply incredible: such a diversity of colors, textures, angles, and shapes! Some of my favorite photos are these:

    Zion sandstone, somewhere along the scenic drive. Hasselblad H4D-40, HC100mm lens.

    Zion sandstone, somewhere along the scenic drive. The trees provide a scale perspective.  Hasselblad H4D-40, HC100mm lens.

    Abraham, one of the three patriarchs. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Abraham, one of the three patriarchs. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Contrasting cliffs, near the Big Bend on the scenic drive. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Contrasting cliffs, near the Big Bend on the scenic drive. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Bad weather often makes for good photography. On a warm spring day that started out with blue skies, Zion had a small snow squall followed by shifting fog in the afternoon. It was a wonderful time to have a camera, and the rest of the day was a lot of fun.

    Fog and sun in Zion. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Fog and sun in Zion. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Small peak shrouded in fog. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Small peak shrouded in fog. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Fog and formations. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Fog and formations. Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    I got up early on several mornings to photograph stars. At the end of the campground, I found a clear area that allowed a view of The Watchman towering above. Light from the town of Springdale made the mountain more visible. I also found that the dense portion of the Milky Way galaxy came up from the horizon about 5:00 a.m. at this time of year, just before the first light of the sun started to dim the stars. I don’t do many shots like this, and it was much fun despite the early hour (or maybe even because of being active while everyone else slept).

    Watchman at night (i.e., Night Watchman). Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 50mm f/1.2 @ f/1.6 for 20 seconds.

    Watchman at night (i.e., Night Watchman). Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 50mm f/1.2 @ f/1.6 for 20 seconds.

    Another diversion in Zion National Park is rock climbing, and rock climbers could be seen on walls all around the park. Shuttle drivers would often slow down to point them out to passengers. I am content to stay on the ground looking up through a viewfinder.

    Rock climber (below and to the left of center). Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    Rock climber (below and to the left of center). Canon 1DMkIV, Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    The most memorable and unique hike I’ve ever taken was done on this trip to Zion when I climbed to the top of Angels Landing, one of the best-known hikes in the park. Because of my inability to walk long distances or carry heavy loads, I left my big cameras in the camper and took only a cell phone camera. The iPhone 5 camera did remarkably well, and I’ll save that for another post. Below is a photograph of Angels Landing (tall peak in the center) with the Virgin River in the foreground.

    Angels Landing and the North Fork of the Virgin River. Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens.

    Angels Landing and the North Fork of the Virgin River. Canon 1DsMkIII, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens.

    This description centers on the main scenic drive in Zion National Park; it’s where the majority of park visitors experience Zion. The northwest portion of the park, reached by traveling I-15 north to Exit 40, is called the Kolob Canyons. I visited there one afternoon but didn’t do any hiking. When I return to Zion, I will spend more time here, as I’ve read of some relatively easy and beautiful hikes (especially the Taylor Creek trail).

    Another long road through the park leaves from the town of Virgin and is called the Kolob Terrace Road. It’s an unpaved road that is impassible when wet, and I didn’t want to travel a road like that while carrying a heavy camper. Next time I’ll unload the camper and take a look at that part of the park. There is a primitive campground toward the end of the road.

    Finally, many people enjoy walking up the North Fork of the Virgin River, beginning about a mile (on a paved path) past the last shuttle stop on the scenic drive. I don’t do well on uneven, slippery surfaces, especially with camera equipment that doesn’t like to get wet, so I’ve never had this experience at Zion. Still, I’ve seen some families with youngsters returning from a hike in the river, and they were in great spirits from the outing.

    The east side of Zion, past the tunnel on Highway 9, offers a very different feel and look from the scenic drive. There is less vegetation, and the sandstone formations are beautifully different than those in Zion Canyon. I want to get more photos of that area before I try to describe it in pictures — yet another visit and another blog post.

    Let me know if you have any questions about Zion, and I’ll do my best to answer them.

  • Photography locations - Utah

    Southwest Utah in Winter: Bryce and Zion in January, 2011

    Sunrise in Bryce Canyon, January 10, 2011. Temperature was -6 degrees F.
    Canon 1DsMkIII, 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    I traveled to southwest Utah (and points beyond) during a 6-week trip in January/February of 2011 to seek new landscapes and warmer temperatures. Wow, minus 6 degrees on my first morning at Bryce! I haven’t experienced cold like that since growing up in Glasgow in eastern Montana. As a kid, temperatures below minus 20 degrees were common every winter. Since moving to Washington (and especially western Washington with the marine influence), I haven’t come close to feeling those kinds of temperatures.

    I was traveling in my camper with all the comforts of home, minus the space. I felt so fortunate, though; camping next to me were two young guys in a tent. Sorry, but I’m way past that stage of my life.

    I had long wanted to photograph Bryce Canyon with snow. I’ve been to Bryce on several occasions, and the red spires are always, well, inspiring. The multiple spires form a very rugged and beautiful landscape, and I’ve followed the trails throughout these formations. But the combination of red rocks, white snow, and blue skies has always been intriguing, and I was wanting to experience this myself.

    I arrived at Bryce mid-afternoon and quickly found a campsite. Only one campground is kept open at that time of year, but there were only a handful of campers. It’s too bad that so many people miss the beauty that challenging weather often brings. I went to Sunset Point as the sun was setting, and then returned to the campsite for the long winter night.

    I like to be at a location to begin photographing well before sunrise, and a flashlight is a standard part of my equipment. So it was at Bryce, and I arrived an Sunrise Point in the dark. Unfortunately, I got mixed up with Sunset Point, and I was looking for the landmarks that I had seen the previous evening. I walked around in the dark for about 30 minutes looking for the trailhead, drove around some more, and finally set out on the only trailhead I could find.

    When I got to the rim a short distance away, I turned left, confident that I would find the overlook along this trail. I was dressed warmly around my torso, but my feet, legs, hands, and head were not adequately protected from these cold temperatures for long periods of time. I walked along the rim for about 30 minutes, realized I was going in the wrong direction, so I retraced my steps back to where I had turned and continued along the rim in the other direction. By this time I had been walking for about 90 minutes, and light was beginning to creep over the horizon.

    Within a short distance I came to Sunrise Point. If I had initially turned right instead of left, I would have easily found the vantage point much sooner. I set up and took some photos of the rock towers prior to sunrise when the light was softer and more evenly distributed across the landscape.

    Bryce Canyon Prior to Sunrise. Canon 1DsMkIII, 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    As soon as the sun crests the horizon, the light becomes directional and intense, shadows form, and the contrast is much greater. The resulting image at this moment is shown at the top of this page.

    During the winter months, the sun rises much further to the south. As a result, the entire canyon doesn’t fill with light, and the southern part of the canyon remains in shade for quite some time. In the spring when the sun moves northward, the entire basin will catch the first rays of the sun, and this will be repeated again in the fall as the sunrises retreat to the south. While the entire basin filled with light is certainly dramatic, it doesn’t (usually!) have snow, and snow was my goal.

    I was amply rewarded for my efforts. The light was beautiful. The red rocks were beautiful. The snow was beautiful. The blue sky with cloud patterns was beautiful. And I was freezing. I took as many pictures as I could, switched to film in the Pentax 645 for some additional photos, and then thought about hiking down the trails for some additional photos. By now I had been out in the cold weather for nearly 3 hours. I realized it was getting difficult to walk and to talk. Any thought of hiking into the canyon was quickly dismissed.

    I tried to warm up by the fire at Ruby’s Inn, but finally paid $3 for one of the best showers I’ve had in my life. Even after the shower, I didn’t feel too well for several hours. This was a warning to me, and it should be to others as well, that cold temperatures are nothing to fool with, especially in areas where few people are to be found. I’ve since purchased pac boots, lined pants, warmer gloves, and headgear that will cover my ears, neck, and much of my face. Next time I’ll be more prepared for the cold.

    Columns Close-up. Canon 1DsMkIII, 70-200mm f/4 IS lens.

    ZION

    I had driven past the entrance to Zion on my previous trips to Bryce, but I had never turned right to visit this national park.  Wow, what I had been missing.

    Zion is a relatively small national park.  It is surrounded by tall peaks and buttes, but most of the human activity is concentrated on the valley floor.  An extensive trail system covers portions of the park, and this is the best way to get away from the crowds and have a more intimate experience with the park.

    I entered on the east entrance on Highway 9.  Once past the entrance station, there are several pullouts that offer the first good views of what Zion has to offer.

    Zion Butte. Canon 1DsMkIII, Zeiss 50mm Makro, two shots stitched.

    The rock formations and surfaces in the area past the entrance station were exceptionally interesting, but relatively few trails can be found in this area. The east rim trail heads north from the entrance station. It is a relatively long trail and eventually connects with other trails on the valley floor. A much shorter and popular trail begins at the east entrance to the tunnel and leads to a dramatic overlook of the Zion valley below. I was anxious to experience the valley in the few hours that remained in the afternoon, so I postponed the overlook trail to the next day.

    The 1.1 mile tunnel that takes park visitors to the valley below was completed in 1930. However, it is a relatively narrow tunnel, and large vehicles must travel down the center. For this reason, traffic coming from the other direction is stopped while a large vehicle is in the tunnel, and a $15 fee (as of 2011) is charged to the driver of that monster; I was one such driver. Driving through such a long tunnel is an experience in itself, as the road is anything but straight.

    Once I was safely through the tunnel, I continued the numerous switchbacks to the valley floor. Now the sandstone cliffs and rocky peaks towered above me, and I could understand why the park was so popular with visitors.

    Zion Craig. Canon 1DsMkIII, 24-70mm f2.8 lens.

    I continued north on the main valley road and looked for a trail that I might take into some areas removed from the roadway. But I quickly discovered one of the difficulties of winter in the park: icy trails. The many hikers had turned snow-covered trails to ice, and it was treacherous footing in many sections. With my artificial hips, the thought of slipping and falling on hard ice did not appeal to me, and that greatly limited the trails I was able to attempt.

    Despite warning signs that the trail was closed a short distance ahead, I did head out on the Emerald Pools trail. By walking on the edge of the trail, I was able to avoid much of the ice created by previous hikers. The trail eventually came to an overhang, and a small stream above sprayed water across the trail to the slope below. Of course, water and sub-freezing temperatures had created huge amounts of ice here, and this is where the trail had prudently been closed. Not only was the ice several inches thick on the trail and short section of railing that keeps hikers from falling, but I could hear large chunks of ice breaking and falling above. Still, I wanted a better angle for a photo, so I inched around the barricade to a location where I could look back up the trail at the icy conditions.

    Icy Trail to Emerald Pools. Canon 1DsMkIII, 24-70mm f/2.8 lens.

    Icicles hung down from the overhang. The small ones were photogenic; the large one were dangerous. After getting a few photographs, I quickly retraced my careful steps and left the area.


    Icicles Along the Emerald Pools Trail. Canon 1DsMkIII, 70-200mm f/4 lens.

    The next day found a completely overcast sky, and that precluded any more photos of the towering cliffs. I drove back up the valley road, imagining what all of the trees lining the North Fork of the Virgin River must look like in the spring, summer, and autumn. I came to the end of the road where, during warmer weather, many hikers continue on up the river through narrow canyons. I was content to explore the area and look for interesting ice patterns in the small pools at the edge of the river.

    Ice and Rock Patterns. Canon 1DsMkIII, Zeiss 50mm f/2 Makro lens.

    Because of the overcast skies and my desire to get to Bosque del Apache, I left Zion after only a day and a half, an area in which a person could easily spend a week or more exploring. At least I left knowing what a beautiful place this little valley is and that I would be returning during a spring or fall season.

    Red Sandstone Walls of Zion. Canon 1DsMkIII, 24-70mm f/2.8 lens.